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Adventure
Exploring Japan’s untouched lands
In collaboration with Arc’teryx
Close your eyes and picture Japan. Do you see neon lights, busy crossings, and tiny ramen shops tucked down narrow alleys?
That’s one side of Japan—but beyond the cities lies another world. More than 70% of the country is mountains, forests, quiet villages, and shrines that seem frozen in time. On a two-week trip through central Japan, I set out to immerse myself in that more peaceful, untouched side of the country.
Info
Year
2019
Images
Tiffany C., Danny Z.
Info
Year
2019
Images
Tiffany C., Danny Z.
Info
Year
2019
Images
Tiffany C., Danny Z.
When to visit
November in Japan is magical. While fall fades away back home in Ontario, Japan’s landscapes are just catching fire with colour. From mid-October to mid-November, the leaves reach their peak—painting the trails and temples in fiery reds and golds.
The weather is cool, sometimes rainy (much like British Columbia), and at higher altitudes, the air turns brisk. Layers are your best friend here—lightweight, packable, and easy to adjust as you move between trains, trails, and villages. For me, that meant living in the Cerium LT Hoody from Arc’teryx. It became my go-to layer—warm without the bulk, and perfect for days when the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind.
When to visit
November in Japan is magical. While fall fades away back home in Ontario, Japan’s landscapes are just catching fire with colour. From mid-October to mid-November, the leaves reach their peak—painting the trails and temples in fiery reds and golds.
The weather is cool, sometimes rainy (much like British Columbia), and at higher altitudes, the air turns brisk. Layers are your best friend here—lightweight, packable, and easy to adjust as you move between trains, trails, and villages. For me, that meant living in the Cerium LT Hoody from Arc’teryx. It became my go-to layer—warm without the bulk, and perfect for days when the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind.
When to visit
November in Japan is magical. While fall fades away back home in Ontario, Japan’s landscapes are just catching fire with colour. From mid-October to mid-November, the leaves reach their peak—painting the trails and temples in fiery reds and golds.
The weather is cool, sometimes rainy (much like British Columbia), and at higher altitudes, the air turns brisk. Layers are your best friend here—lightweight, packable, and easy to adjust as you move between trains, trails, and villages. For me, that meant living in the Cerium LT Hoody from Arc’teryx. It became my go-to layer—warm without the bulk, and perfect for days when the weather couldn’t quite make up its mind.
Hakone
Just 90 minutes from Tokyo, Hakone is a weekend escape for hot springs and mountain views. Staying in a traditional ryokan is part of the experience, featuring tatami mats, private indoor/outdoor onsens (hot spring baths), and beautifully presented multi-course meals.
If you’re an early riser, catch the sunrise at Lake Ashinoko. The Hakone-jinja torii gate standing in the water is breathtaking, especially before the crowds arrive.
Hakone
Just 90 minutes from Tokyo, Hakone is a weekend escape for hot springs and mountain views. Staying in a traditional ryokan is part of the experience, featuring tatami mats, private indoor/outdoor onsens (hot spring baths), and beautifully presented multi-course meals.
If you’re an early riser, catch the sunrise at Lake Ashinoko. The Hakone-jinja torii gate standing in the water is breathtaking, especially before the crowds arrive.
Hakone
Just 90 minutes from Tokyo, Hakone is a weekend escape for hot springs and mountain views. Staying in a traditional ryokan is part of the experience, featuring tatami mats, private indoor/outdoor onsens (hot spring baths), and beautifully presented multi-course meals.
If you’re an early riser, catch the sunrise at Lake Ashinoko. The Hakone-jinja torii gate standing in the water is breathtaking, especially before the crowds arrive.
Kurobe Gorge
Deep in the Northern Alps, Kurobe Gorge is one of Japan’s most remote ravines, situated within a volcanic mountain range. Getting there takes a bit of effort—first a 2.5-hour shinkansen (bullet train) ride from Tokyo to Shin-Kurobe, then a connecting train through Unazuki-Onsen Town—but the reward is worth it.
The highlight is the Torokko train (also known as the Kurobe Gorge Railway), a narrow-gauge line that runs 20 km through the gorge. Over 80 minutes, it crosses more than 20 bridges and passes through 40 tunnels, each opening up to another sweeping view. If the weather permits, opt for an open-window car—the fresh air and unobstructed views make the ride truly unforgettable.
On my train ride, the rain revealed hidden waterfalls streaming down the cliffs. Combined with mist clinging to the trees, the gorge felt otherworldly, like stepping into a storybook.
Kurobe Gorge
Deep in the Northern Alps, Kurobe Gorge is one of Japan’s most remote ravines, situated within a volcanic mountain range. Getting there takes a bit of effort—first a 2.5-hour shinkansen (bullet train) ride from Tokyo to Shin-Kurobe, then a connecting train through Unazuki-Onsen Town—but the reward is worth it.
The highlight is the Torokko train (also known as the Kurobe Gorge Railway), a narrow-gauge line that runs 20 km through the gorge. Over 80 minutes, it crosses more than 20 bridges and passes through 40 tunnels, each opening up to another sweeping view. If the weather permits, opt for an open-window car—the fresh air and unobstructed views make the ride truly unforgettable.
On my train ride, the rain revealed hidden waterfalls streaming down the cliffs. Combined with mist clinging to the trees, the gorge felt otherworldly, like stepping into a storybook.
Kurobe Gorge
Deep in the Northern Alps, Kurobe Gorge is one of Japan’s most remote ravines, situated within a volcanic mountain range. Getting there takes a bit of effort—first a 2.5-hour shinkansen (bullet train) ride from Tokyo to Shin-Kurobe, then a connecting train through Unazuki-Onsen Town—but the reward is worth it.
The highlight is the Torokko train (also known as the Kurobe Gorge Railway), a narrow-gauge line that runs 20 km through the gorge. Over 80 minutes, it crosses more than 20 bridges and passes through 40 tunnels, each opening up to another sweeping view. If the weather permits, opt for an open-window car—the fresh air and unobstructed views make the ride truly unforgettable.
On my train ride, the rain revealed hidden waterfalls streaming down the cliffs. Combined with mist clinging to the trees, the gorge felt otherworldly, like stepping into a storybook.
Ainokura
Hidden in the mountains of Gokayama, Ainokura is a UNESCO World Heritage village with just over twenty traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses. These wooden homes, with their steep thatched roofs “praying” toward the sky, have stood for over 300 years.
Walking the village at sunrise was one of my favourite moments of the trip. Mist drifted across the mountain backdrop, while the farmhouses stood in quiet silhouette. It’s the kind of scene that lingers with you long after you leave.
Many of the farmhouses have been converted into guesthouses, museums, or restaurants, making it possible to stay overnight. A night here means sleeping on futons in tatami rooms, sharing simple but delicious home-cooked meals with locals, and getting a glimpse of rural life that’s fast disappearing.
Gassho-sukuri houses
“Gassho” means “hands in prayer,” and the houses of Ainokura are named for their steep, thatched roofs that resemble palms pressed together.
A few fascinating details:
The roofs are built without nails—wooden beams are bound with ropes
They’re angled at 60 degrees to withstand heavy winter snow
Houses are aligned north–south to minimize wind resistance while catching the warmth of the sunlight
Ainokura
Hidden in the mountains of Gokayama, Ainokura is a UNESCO World Heritage village with just over twenty traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses. These wooden homes, with their steep thatched roofs “praying” toward the sky, have stood for over 300 years.
Walking the village at sunrise was one of my favourite moments of the trip. Mist drifted across the mountain backdrop, while the farmhouses stood in quiet silhouette. It’s the kind of scene that lingers with you long after you leave.
Many of the farmhouses have been converted into guesthouses, museums, or restaurants, making it possible to stay overnight. A night here means sleeping on futons in tatami rooms, sharing simple but delicious home-cooked meals with locals, and getting a glimpse of rural life that’s fast disappearing.
Gassho-sukuri houses
“Gassho” means “hands in prayer,” and the houses of Ainokura are named for their steep, thatched roofs that resemble palms pressed together.
A few fascinating details:
The roofs are built without nails—wooden beams are bound with ropes
They’re angled at 60 degrees to withstand heavy winter snow
Houses are aligned north–south to minimize wind resistance while catching the warmth of the sunlight
Ainokura
Hidden in the mountains of Gokayama, Ainokura is a UNESCO World Heritage village with just over twenty traditional gassho-zukuri farmhouses. These wooden homes, with their steep thatched roofs “praying” toward the sky, have stood for over 300 years.
Walking the village at sunrise was one of my favourite moments of the trip. Mist drifted across the mountain backdrop, while the farmhouses stood in quiet silhouette. It’s the kind of scene that lingers with you long after you leave.
Many of the farmhouses have been converted into guesthouses, museums, or restaurants, making it possible to stay overnight. A night here means sleeping on futons in tatami rooms, sharing simple but delicious home-cooked meals with locals, and getting a glimpse of rural life that’s fast disappearing.
Gassho-sukuri houses
“Gassho” means “hands in prayer,” and the houses of Ainokura are named for their steep, thatched roofs that resemble palms pressed together.
A few fascinating details:
The roofs are built without nails—wooden beams are bound with ropes
They’re angled at 60 degrees to withstand heavy winter snow
Houses are aligned north–south to minimize wind resistance while catching the warmth of the sunlight
Kumano Kodo
South of Osaka, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails crisscross the Kii Peninsula, connecting three sacred shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Pilgrims have been walking these paths for over a thousand years.
There are routes for every schedule—from multi-day treks to short day hikes. If time is tight, local buses connect to some of the most famous trailheads, making it possible to walk a smaller section and still reach one of the grand shrines.
Walking even a short stretch gives you a sense of why the Kumano Kodo trails have endured. Cedar-lined paths, stone steps, and the rhythm of quiet footsteps create a meditative experience.
Tip: Pick up a Kumano Kodo unlimited bus pass—it makes hopping between the trails and shrines simple and affordable.
Kumano Kodo
South of Osaka, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails crisscross the Kii Peninsula, connecting three sacred shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Pilgrims have been walking these paths for over a thousand years.
There are routes for every schedule—from multi-day treks to short day hikes. If time is tight, local buses connect to some of the most famous trailheads, making it possible to walk a smaller section and still reach one of the grand shrines.
Walking even a short stretch gives you a sense of why the Kumano Kodo trails have endured. Cedar-lined paths, stone steps, and the rhythm of quiet footsteps create a meditative experience.
Tip: Pick up a Kumano Kodo unlimited bus pass—it makes hopping between the trails and shrines simple and affordable.
Kumano Kodo
South of Osaka, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails crisscross the Kii Peninsula, connecting three sacred shrines: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha, and Kumano Nachi Taisha. Pilgrims have been walking these paths for over a thousand years.
There are routes for every schedule—from multi-day treks to short day hikes. If time is tight, local buses connect to some of the most famous trailheads, making it possible to walk a smaller section and still reach one of the grand shrines.
Walking even a short stretch gives you a sense of why the Kumano Kodo trails have endured. Cedar-lined paths, stone steps, and the rhythm of quiet footsteps create a meditative experience.
Tip: Pick up a Kumano Kodo unlimited bus pass—it makes hopping between the trails and shrines simple and affordable.
Carrying Japan home
What I loved most about this trip wasn’t just the views or the history—it was the feeling of slowing down. Standing in misty mountain villages, walking ancient paths, and soaking in hot springs reminded me that travel doesn’t always have to be about rushing from one sight to the next. Sometimes, the quiet moments leave the deepest mark.
Japan’s untouched side is still with me now, even back home. And I know it’s a place I’ll return to again—not just for what I’ll see, but for how it makes me feel.
Carrying Japan home
What I loved most about this trip wasn’t just the views or the history—it was the feeling of slowing down. Standing in misty mountain villages, walking ancient paths, and soaking in hot springs reminded me that travel doesn’t always have to be about rushing from one sight to the next. Sometimes, the quiet moments leave the deepest mark.
Japan’s untouched side is still with me now, even back home. And I know it’s a place I’ll return to again—not just for what I’ll see, but for how it makes me feel.
Carrying Japan home
What I loved most about this trip wasn’t just the views or the history—it was the feeling of slowing down. Standing in misty mountain villages, walking ancient paths, and soaking in hot springs reminded me that travel doesn’t always have to be about rushing from one sight to the next. Sometimes, the quiet moments leave the deepest mark.
Japan’s untouched side is still with me now, even back home. And I know it’s a place I’ll return to again—not just for what I’ll see, but for how it makes me feel.